Best of Kuala Lumpur
Brickfields: Kuala Lumpur's Little India and Cultural Quarter
Brickfields carries its name from the brick kilns that once operated in this riverside district before the Indian and Tamil communities who came to work on the Malayan Railway in the late 19th century established the neighbourhood that has preserved its South Indian cultural identity across more than a century of surrounding urban transformation. The neighbourhood's official designation as Kuala Lumpur's Little India formalised what was already an organic reality — the concentration of Tamil Hindu temples, Deepavali decorations, sari shops, garland makers, and the restaurants serving the South Indian cuisine that the community maintained through generations of settlement in a Muslim-majority country far from its origins.
The Sri Mahamariamman Temple on Jalan Scott, one of the oldest Hindu temples in Kuala Lumpur, serves the Tamil community's religious life with the elaborate gopuram tower and daily puja ceremonies that maintain the devotional calendar of a displaced community with remarkable fidelity to tradition. The temple's role in the Thaipusam festival — when it is the starting point for the processional carrying of the kavadi to the Batu Caves — makes it one of the most significant Hindu religious sites in Malaysia and a spectacle of devotional intensity that draws hundreds of thousands of participants and observers each January. The surrounding streets during Deepavali, when the lights and decorations transform Brickfields into an illuminated cultural festival, provide one of Kuala Lumpur's most photogenic seasonal experiences.
The food of Brickfields is the food of Tamil Nadu and Kerala as reinterpreted through a century of Malaysian adaptation — the banana leaf rice served at lunch in the restaurants along Jalan Tun Sambanthan, the teh tarik pulled tea that Malaysia considers a national heritage beverage, the roti canai and thosai available from dawn in the mamak restaurants that have become a fundamental institution of Malaysian social life regardless of ethnic background. The neighbourhood's position adjacent to the KL Sentral transport hub makes it the practical gateway for visitors arriving by rail, and the short walk through Brickfields from the station to the city centre provides an immediate immersion in the cultural diversity that is Malaysia's most significant social achievement.